Kollam casts a spell
Kollam, an ancient seaport, is noted for the scent of cashews and whole spices. In its environs, cottage industries, fishing, boat-building, and coir industries thrive side by side. Located in the southern part of Kerala, Kollam, once called Quilon, offers a quintessential trip to a bygone era.
In the 14th century, Chinese treasure ships with cast-bronze canons, square sails, and woodblock prints moored on the Kollam coast during heavy monsoons. Arab traveler Ibn Batuta recounts these ships scattered through a beautiful coastal town, then called Desinganadu, blessed with many green gardens and bustling bazaars.
An eight-hour boat journey on the backwaters of Ashtamudi takes you to the panoramic vistas of Neendakara fishing harbor, the boat building yards at Alumkadavu, the largest freshwater lakes at Sasthamkotta, and the five-acre hermitage of Mata Amritanandamayi.Â
An old Malayalam proverb states that anyone who has seen Kollam will not ache for his hometown anymore. Such is the sorcery of this unassuming coastal city.
Ashtamudi Backwaters
Floating cottages and Chinese fishing nets adorn either side of the octopus-shaped Ashtamudi Lake. A ride in a houseboat offers a view of mangrove forests, egrets descending onto still waters, serene rural life, and the retting of coconut husks. Wander through nearby lanes and you may stumble upon the two-century-old Thevally Palace, famous for its blend of Dutch and Portuguese architecture.
The nearby Ramsar Convention estuary is also a habitat for migratory birds and short-necked clam fisheries.
Thenmala Eco Tourism
At Thenmala, covered by dense forests and rubber and tea plantations, one can experience both wildlife and the spirit of adventure. The World Tourism Organization selected Thanmala as one of the world’s best eco-friendly projects. Trekking, boating, tenting, bird watching, mountain biking, rock climbing, rappelling, and river crossing are a few ways to enjoy India’s first planned ecotourism destination, including a sculpture garden and a culture zone. In a one-of-a-kind endeavor, visitors to Nakshatravanam (a nursery of trees considered sacred to the 27 constellations) can take home a tree sapling that corresponds to their birth star.
The eco-sanctuary offers tantalizing glimpses of wildlife like the giant Malabar squirrel leaping through the thick canopies of the Shenduruney Wildlife Sanctuary. The deer rehabilitation center is home to sambar, spotted, or barking deer.
Jatayupara
Myths have a way of reinventing themselves. The Jatayupara Lake honors the sacrifice and splendor of Jatayu, a semi-vulture god, who lost a wing in a scuffle with Ravana, in a tale from the Ramayana. He is said to have rested on this rock until Lord Ram gave him water from a nearby lake. The lake that exists to date never dries up, even during a harsh summer.
Rajeev Anchal, a film and art director, has crafted a huge 60-foot-tall, 150-foot-wide, and 200-foot-long figure of Jatayu in a rock theme park on this hill. Trek to the top for a true bird’s-eye view 1,000 feet above sea level, to see eagles perched on treetops, scenic beauty, and cloudy weather.
Munroe Islands
Munroe Island is named after Colonel John Munroe, who pioneered canal construction and transformed the backwater experience in Kerala. A native of Scotland, Munroe served as the Diwan of Travancore. Munroe is credited with integrating several backwater regions by digging canals. While Indians strive to erase the memories of British rule by renaming English street names, Munroe Island stands testimony to his vision.
This quaint island, formed by the backwaters of Ashtamudi Lake and the Kallada River, is known for its mangrove forests and lagoons. You will find groups of men huddled in small yards around spinning wheels called Raattu, churning ropes from coir fiber.
Alumkadavu reminds houseboats
The famed Kettuvallam houseboats originated in Alumkadavu, a quaint little village with a distinctive scent of coir and wood. Initially conceived as a floating rice barge to carry heavy loads, fishermen used the Kettuvallam to navigate through palm-fringed canals in search of the night’s catch. Over the centuries, it became a traveler’s favorite medium for enjoying the tranquil splendor of the backwaters.
Rent a small vallom boat to enjoy this experience and paddle past cozy houses, whitewashed churches, and women on raattu (bicycle wheel spinners) whirling coconut fiber into ropes. You will witness boat-building yards where men in checkered lungis construct the finest boats without hammering a single nail. They tie wooden planks together with coir, paint them in fish oil, and glue them using dark resin obtained from boiling cashews.
Punalur Hanging Bridge
The beautiful town of Punalur, located on the eastern fringes of Kollam district, is the municipal headquarters of Pathanapuram Taluk. It is located on the Kollam-Shencottah-Thenkasi highway and is the main transit point for goods from southern Kerala to Tamil Nadu due to its proximity to the state border. It also serves as a transit point for tourists visiting major picnic spots and pilgrim centers in its vicinity. Punalur is renowned for its paper mill, established in 1888 by the British. It functioned until 1984 but was later closed.
The highlight of Punalur is its unique Hanging Bridge, one of its kind in South India. Albert Henry constructed it in 1877 across the Kallada River. The bridge has three spans, is 400 meters long, and took six years to build. It is noted for the temples of Ayyappa, Krishna, Siva, and Dev.
Sasthamkotta, the Queen of the Lakes
Another spot in the Kollam district that stands out for its distinct charm is Sasthamkotta, the largest freshwater lake in Kerala, situated 29 km from the town. The place owes its name, Sasthamkotta, to the Lord Sastha Temple, an important pilgrim center. The monkeys of Sasthamkotta that colonize the towering trees are believed to be the loyal followers of the ruling deity, the Dharmasastha. A boat ride through this Queen of Lakes’s tranquil waters can refresh your soul.
