The famous Raja Café, the pride of Khajuraho, in the heart of the city
The famous Raja Café, the pride of Khajuraho, in the heart of the city (image courtesy: Deepanwita Gita Niyogi)

A café with a Swiss touch

Much like Kolkata’s Flurys, once deemed the only authentic Swiss confectionary outside of Europe in colonial times, there’s a touch of Switzerland in Madhya Pradesh’s UNESCO world heritage site of Khajuraho too.

Raja Café, started in 1978, has a Kolkata connection. The two sisters Betty and Joy who founded the café, originally came from India’s erstwhile capital.

The café is named after Bhawani Singh, the Maharaja of Chhattarpur, which was formerly a princely state. Today, the café’s reputation matches that of the famous temples which attract millions of global visitors. In fact, the café terrace offers a spectacular view of the Western group of temples.

A glimpse of the Western group of temples from a café’s tin Khajuraho
A glimpse of the Western group of temples from the café’s terrace (image courtesy: Deepanwita Gita Niyogi)

Khajuraho’s oldest café

Manager Rajendra Singh Parmar who has worked at Raja Café for 27 years calls it the oldest café in Khajuraho. “Those who visit the temples always come to the café,” he added.

Raja Café’s open terrace attracts tourists
Raja Café’s open terrace attracts tourists (image courtesy: Deepanwita Gita Niyogi)

Raja Café’s present owner Robert Bohnenblust inherited it from his grandparents who initially leased and then purchased the eatery from the king. Bohnenblust’s grandfather Gilles was a Swiss national who married his grandmother Betty. Khajuraho is a melting pot of culture and inclusiveness. Gilles and Betty eventually settled in this sleepy town and made it their home.

Gilles, along with the two sisters played an instrumental role in setting up Raja Café. He also built a tree house, currently under renovation, near the locally famous Panna National Park.

The base of a neem tree at Khajuraho's Raja Cafe
The 180-year-old neem tree at the center of Raja Café (image courtesy: Deepanwita Gita Niyogi)

The neem tree at the center of Raja Café is about 180 years old, said Parmar, and was planted by Maharaja Bhavani Singh’s father. A tourist from China took a sample of the tree bark to test back in his country, confirming its age.

“The eclectic menu has been selected by present owner Robert Bohnenblust,” confirmed Parmar.  “The menu has been made keeping the diverse crowd in mind. Our Continental food is appreciated.”

Joseph Valk, a Czech tourist, on his first visit to Khajuraho to see the famed temples and the tigers of the Panna National Park, said “The food quality is good at the café and the washroom clean.”

Chef Kamta Prasad Raikwad who has worked at Raja Café for eight years likes preparing Continental food such as pizzas and burgers which is popular with customers.

“The café’s USP is that chefs take time,” he says. “We tell guests that they cannot rush. We make fresh dishes daily. Grilled chicken is much liked by all,” At peak season from November to February, the café caters to nearly 150 tourists daily.