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Heavenly Kailash Mansarovar

Heavenly Kailash Mansarovar

Kailash Manasarovar—two words, two names, one pilgrimage—and means more than a name, more than even a pilgrimage for followers of five of the world’s major religions—Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, Sikhism and Bon. The Hindus believe that Lord Shiva is the creator of the...
The Invincible Fort of Murud Janjira

The Invincible Fort of Murud Janjira

I was 14 when I heard about the African Sidis from my father. Several years later, during a vacation, as I travelled by road along the lower lip of Gujarat I suddenly spotted three African women crossing the road with babies on their hips; it struck me immediately...
Tales Set in Stone

Tales Set in Stone

On a recent week-long trip to Bhopal, in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, I had a day to spare. I felt sure in my knowledge that this city’s fame rested largely on the laurels of the Pataudi Nawabs who reigned in the glamorous realms of the country—cricket...

The English Connection

“The language in which we are speaking is his [the Englishman’s] before it is mine. How different are the words home, Christ, ale master, on his lips and on mine! I cannot speak or write these words without unrest of spirit. His language, so familiar and so foreign,...
The March of Civilizations

The March of Civilizations

If my visit to Lothal in Gujarat (“Time Travel,” India Currents, May 2007) was the beginning of a fascination for the Harappan peoples, then Dholavira was the high point of that fascination. I was staying with a close friend in Jamnagar who suggested that...
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