Estimated reading time: 5 minutes

The lingering taste of aamra

I have a vivid memory of school day afternoons in Mumbai, when a churan-wala would appear outside the gates with a tray of freshly cut aamra—the small, wild mango more often pickled than eaten raw. Tart and mouth-puckering, dusted generously with masala, its sharpness softened by salt and spice, it was a lesson in balance. Bold, but never excessive. Playful, yet precise. One bite lingered. So did the memory.

That memory returned unexpectedly when I first encountered Aamra—not through a pickle jar, but a brass tadka spoon. Deep, shimmery gold with a beautifully crafted walnut handle, it caught my eye instantly. I tried the tadka box and the spices that came with it: the crackle of jeera hitting hot oil, the pungent warmth of hing, the slow burn of a whole red chili, the green freshness of curry leaves. These were spices with clarity and confidence—unadulterated, alive. The brass spoon carried heat and aroma beautifully, every sizzle delivering intention.

It felt familiar. And then I learned why. The story of Aamra begins in 1964, when Pushpawati Khaitan—then simply described as a housewife—quietly did something radical. She founded Nari Shiksha Kendra (NSK) to create livelihoods for women in her local community. There were no business plans or brand narratives. There were spices. There were pickles. There were hands that knew how to grind, dry, season, and, most importantly, wait.

More than sixty years later, not much has changed—and that is precisely the point. The masalas are still hand-ground. The pickles are still made the slow way, guided as much by instinct as instruction. 

A gift box with a large ladle in front and jars of spices on the left
A tadka box by Aamra. (Image courtesy: Aamra by NSK)
A tadka box by Aamra. (Image courtesy: Aamra by NSK)

Pickles are still made the old-school way: rooftops covered in color, vegetables laid out patiently under the winter sun. No machines. No shortcuts. Just nature doing what it has always done best—drawing out moisture, deepening flavor, allowing time to do its work, helping the pickles mature slowly and beautifully. What has changed is reach. From a modest community initiative, NSK’s products now travel across India, stocked in over 200 stores through white-label partnerships with established artisanal brands. Tradition, it turns out, scales—when it is respected.

In 2017, under the leadership of Jaya Bajaj, NSK took a careful but decisive step: selling directly to consumers under its own name, Aamra. Online, understated, and unhurried, the response was immediate. Customers from cities and towns far from specialty retail began ordering pickles, chutneys, spices, dips, and sauces—many tasting, perhaps for the first time, food that felt unmistakably homemade.

The name itself carries weight. In Bengali, Aamra means “we.” It also echoes that childhood fruit—sharp, tangy, alive with spice. Together, the meanings converge: we, the women of Aamra, bound by shared labor, shared skill, shared progress. This is not a brand built around a singular hero. It is collective by design.

Step into the kitchen in Ghaziabad, and the romance of the story settles into rhythm. Mangoes are washed and cut with care. Garlic is peeled, clove by clove. Spices are sifted, not rushed. Oil warms patiently on the stove. Jars are lined up, ready for their turn. The work is methodical, almost meditative—decidedly out of sync with modern urgency.

That patience is not incidental; it is the grounding philosophy.

Aamra’s products are made in small batches, without artificial preservatives, using techniques that depend on judgment and time. Salt is adjusted by feel. Ingredients are sun-dried until they are ready, not until the clock says so. Some pickles are aged naturally in earthen jars, allowed to deepen and mature at their own pace. In a world obsessed with speed, Aamra insists that slowness has value.

Transforming lives the traditional way

And then there is the ingredient you will not find on any label. For the women who work here, this is more than production—it is progression. New members begin with preparation: cleaning, sorting, peeling. Over time, they move into more technical stages, learning to cook, blend, and balance flavors where experience matters most. Knowledge passes quietly, woman to woman. A simple apprenticeship, but a powerful one—creating a visible path from beginner to expert.

The impact appears first in the practical: steady income, school fees paid on time, medicines bought without hesitation, monthly budgets planned instead of improvised. But the deeper shift is internal. Earning changes how a woman sees herself—and how she is heard at home.

Longtime members speak plainly about what decades of work have made possible: a house built, children educated through school and college. These are not dramatic headlines; they are structural shifts in a family’s future. With financial contribution often comes a stronger voice in decisions about spending, education, health, and direction.

A smiling woman in saree, bouffant cap and an apron, standing in a room full of pickle jars.
A worker at 'Aamra', a spices and pickling facility run by Nari Shiksha Kendra in Ghaziabad, India. (Image courtesy: Aamra by NSK)
A worker at ‘Aamra’, a spices and pickling facility run by Nari Shiksha Kendra in Ghaziabad, India. (Image courtesy: Aamra by NSK)

There is power, too, in the workplace itself. For women whose labor has long been invisible, the shared kitchen becomes a support system. Skills are recognized. Time is respected. Work is named as work. Confidence grows not through slogans, but through repetition, trust, and mastery.

Aamra matters because access to dignified, paid work for women in India remains uneven—shaped by caregiving demands, safety concerns, and social expectations. When meaningful work exists close to home, rooted in tradition and structured for growth, it expands what women imagine for themselves.

Aamra by NSK carries flavor, certainly. But it also carries a proposition: that women’s knowledge is worth preserving, that tradition can become livelihood, and that “we” can be a business model—not just a sentiment.

Handmade. Traditional. Guided by recipes older than us, and flavors that taste unmistakably like home—exactly what achaar should taste like.

Mona Shah is a multi-platform storyteller with expertise in digital communications, social media strategy, and content curation for Twitter and LinkedIn for C-suite executives. A journalist and editor,...