Nestled among the groves of the evergreen Shonajhuri (ear-leaf acacia) trees, lies the land of Rabindranath Tagore. Steeped in the rusty red of the laterite soil, Shantiniketan, now a part of Bolpur in Eastern India evokes the harmony between nature and mankind as it was meant to be.
Where the Madol and Dhamsa come alive
The land where the Madol and the Dhamsa reverberate in accord with the rhythmic foot-tapping of Santhal (an Indian tribe) dancers, where the soulful singing of the Bauls (minstrels) with their ektaras enthrall their audience into a trance, where the Kopai river gently traverses the Khoai canyons like a bashful village belle, the mustard fields caressing her.
A revered land
Here in this revered land – for Shantinketan commands deep respect and love from not only Bengalis and Indians but from people all over – was born the brainchild of Tagore, the Nobel Laureate. Long before the town became the famous seat of Vishwa Bharati University, Shantiniketan was a meditation center founded by Tagore’s father Maharishi Debendranath Tagore in the 19th century on a leased parcel of land.
A holistic education system rooted in nature
At the start of the 20th century, Rabindranath Tagore initiated the experiential education system with classes being held outdoors in the proximity of Mother Nature which he believed would allow the mind to harness the power of nature to arouse curiosity, creativity, and conception.
A bevy of renowned musicians, writers, filmmakers, scientists and scholars, poets, painters, and parliamentarians who have subsequently enriched our lives and who are all products of Shantiniketan, stand testament to the holistic learning process that Tagore envisioned.
A verdant setting beckons
The University town is home to many talented and famous artists and litterateurs. Their sprawling cottages in well-tended flower-laden gardens add to the verdant setting and sereneness. Some have been converted to lodgings as the original owners are unable to manage them, to the advantage of the visitors who come here to enjoy the quiet away from the din of city life.
For both first-timers and repeat visitors wandering through the land reveals a potpourri of treasures. One can opt to walk or take the rickshaw. Cars are best avoided as the roads are not paved and clouds of dust kicked up can be an issue for pedestrians.
The legacy of a visionary
At Shantiniketan, Tagore’s vision can be witnessed everywhere. The Chatimtala (the place under the Chatim tree) where his father, the Maharishi meditated, became the site of the annual convocation after 1901.
The Upasana Griha or prayer hall which was meant for seekers of spiritual truth is a beauty to behold. Commissioned by Maharishi Debendranath Tagore, and made entirely of stained Belgium glass and a marble floor, it shines like a gem.
The Patha Bhavana, Sangit Bhavana, Kala Bhavana, Bhasha Bhavana, and Vidya Bhavana all are a part of Shantiniketan, taking forward the legacy of the visionary. For the religious at heart, a little further away is the Kankalitala Temple, one of the Shakti Peeths of Ma Durga.
Shonajhurir Haat
Come Saturdays, the Shonajhurir Haat (weekly market) entices shoppers and collectors to throng the open-air market. Artists from nearby villages showcase Kantha stitched fabrics, wood carvings, Dokra figurines, beaded jewelry, and painted pottery. Food stalls of local delicacies are a big draw, especially for the ones who do not want to venture into the town center lest they miss out on the joie de vivre.
Under the shonajhuri trees sits the baul singer oblivious to all the frenzy, strumming his ektara and belting out all pervading folk songs. The Bauls do not follow any religion and their songs are a melting pot of Vaishnavism, Buddhism, and Sufism thus evoking a sense of oneness and camaraderie. In the setting evening sun tourists join the tribal women performing the Jhumur dance, their waists moving synchronously with the beats of the Madol.
The banks of Kopai River provide ample tranquility for those who do not like crowded cacophonous merry-making. Walk past the gently sloping yellow mustard fields to the water’s edge to wet your feet. In the summer months, there’s hardly any water and one can wade through it to the other side.
Palm jaggery and organic farming
Picnics are a common sight here during winters when the sun is mellow and the fog blankets rural Bengal to infuse a nip in the air. It is that time of the year when one can watch palm sap being collected in earthen pots and then boiled to make palm jaggery. Locals and resort owners are also zealous about organic farming and many of them offer farm-to-table concepts in dining.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
This year Shantiniketan has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site and rightfully so. Though footprint has increased over the years and tourism and its ramifications have taken a toll on this sanctuary, it is undoubtedly a place to unwind, understand, and experience Tagore’s dream in its truest sense as he had once written:
“Where the mind is without fear and the head is held high
Where knowledge is free……”.