Authentic, diverse regional cuisine in NYC
New York City is emerging as a strong contender for the title of “home to the world’s finest Indian cuisine,” potentially overshadowing London. Historically celebrated for its exceptional Indian dining, London now faces significant competition from New York, which has been expanding its Indian fine dining scene, with a growing number of restaurants showcasing diverse regional specialties and authentic flavors.
On a recent trip, I had an opportunity to meet Chef Vijay Kumar, a native of Tamil Nadu, who runs the show at Michelin-rated Semma, where regional South Indian cuisine is on unapologetic display. Tucked away on a charming West Village street, everything about Semma is as unassuming as its celebrated chef. I nearly missed my 7 p.m. reservation as I walked by the restaurant, which most identify with just its symbol (The name is etched on the sides but was obscured by outdoor diners).
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As you walk into this airy, light-filled space, you are enveloped in an embrace of spices and aromas that feel familiar, reminiscent of visiting Indian homes. On this visit, our managing editor, Meera Kymal, and I went on an exploration of heritage Southern Indian cuisine that has rarely been seen outside of local homes and neighborhoods.
Chef Vijay Kumar, a slight, smiling man, decided to surprise our palates with some explosive flavors and regional ingredients, cooking up foods that he remembers from his farm life in his family’s ancestral home and methods his mom and grandmother used. “My greatest inspirations come from my mother, grandmother, and the street food of my childhood,” says Chef Kumar.
“Despite cooking contemporary South Indian food on the West Coast, which earned accolades, my true passion lies in authentic regional Indian cuisine. I wanted to share the rich culinary heritage of our community, spanning over 2,000 years, with the Western world,” he adds.
We started with the Paniyaram, so soft and pillowy you sink into it, and Mulaikattiya Thaniyam, the perfect blend of sprouted mung beans, coconut, and chili. The chef’s Poriyal was refreshing and surprisingly garnished with microgreens. The not-to-be-missed gunpowder dosa was on every table, and it was a perfect golden brown. The Nathai Pirattal, Peconic snails served with kal dosa, is a rare inclusion in menus and a must-try. Meera was in culinary heaven with the most succulent lamb ever, Attu Kari Sukka. The Mirch ka Salan, and Kaikari Kurma made with squash were the perfect accompaniment to the Dindigul Goat Biryani and the soft, buttery parotta to sop it all up. Dessert was Shahi Tukda and Elaneer Payasam, coconut forward with bits of tender young fresh coconut to give it a bite.
Kumar teamed up with restaurateurs Roni Mazumdar & Chintan Pandya of Unapologetic Foods. They describe themselves as “a group of rebels, outliers, and passionate foodies, out to redefine Indian food. Our food challenges the conventional norms of what you would expect when you think of Indian food.” Kumar says he is fortunate to have met Roni and Chintan, who were fearlessly showcasing regional cooking. “Together with my team, we craft dishes with love and passion, allowing everything else to unfold naturally,” he says.
And judging by the impossible-to-get reservations, native New Yorkers and visitors are certainly saying “semma”, the Tamil word for awesome!
Here’s my attempt at emulating Chef Vijay Kumar’s poriyal, the South Indian equivalent of a quick, dry stir-fry.
BEANS PORIYAL
INGREDIENTS
- 4 ounces green beans, French trimmed and very finely diced
- 1/4 cup coconut oil (or vegetable oil)
- 2 teaspoons urad dal
- 2 teaspoons chana dal
- 1/2 teaspoon black mustard seed
- 1 cup chopped red onion or shallots
- 1/4 teaspoon hing (asafetida)
- Handful of fresh curry leaves
- 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger
- 5 green small, whole Thai chili peppers (or serrano chili peppers)
- 1 cup grated fresh/frozen coconut
- 1/2 teaspoon plus 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
- Salt to taste
- Microgreens
PREPARATION
- Bring water to a rolling boil and add the green beans. Cook for 7 or 8 minutes, until just al dente
- Drain and immediately place it in the bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process.
- Tadka: Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the urad dal and chana dal; cook, stirring a few times, until they begin to brown. Stir in the mustard seed and the red onion or shallots; cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned.
- Add in the hing, curry leaves, ginger and Thai chili peppers, then the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of ground turmeric, the remaining teaspoon of salt and the coconut; toss to make sure the coconut is evenly distributed.
- Drain the beans and add to the skillet. Cook, stirring to incorporate and heat through, for 3 or 4 minutes.
- Garnish with microgreens. Serve right away.
