‘Breaking Bad’ in New Mexico
As the golden Albuquerque sun sets behind the Sandia Mountains, Walter White stands in the vast American Southwest desert, his glasses reflecting the fading twilight, while a storm of dust swirls around his boots—I was reminded of this image from Breaking Bad when I landed in this New Mexico town for a short winter getaway. The dramatic desert landscape with stunning mountains, a rich, artistic setting, and deep indigenous cultural history can exert an outsized pull over any adventurous soul, so I caved and landed in Albuquerque.
Sunrise over the Sandia
The after I arrived, I was up at 4 am, ready for a flight in a hot air balloon. Albuquerque is known as the hot-ballooning capital of the world, with its clear blue skies, calm winds and mild temperatures, perfect for year-round balloon flights. After signing the liability waivers, our group of eight was driven in a van to the take-off zone. It was still dark and chilly, with the temperature hovering below zero.
As the van pulled into the lot, I spotted the massive balloon on the ground being laid out in preparation for flight. Once the nylon fabric of the balloon was spread flat and stretched out evenly, large fans began inflating the fabric with cold air, causing it to billow and take shape. The partially-filled balloon was then further inflated with powerful propane burners, blasting flames into the envelope and gradually lifting it upright. It was exciting to watch the balloon being prepared for the flight, filling us with anticipation. We couldn’t wait to climb into the attached wicker basket to take flight! Eventually, the pilot took his place, and we all clambered into the basket of the hot air balloon, followed by final safety checks.
As the gas burners released a burst of leaping flames, our balloon gently lifted off the ground against an orange morning sky. We were afloat, ready to drift with the wind. A hot air balloon has no built-in steering mechanism, I learned. It is controlled by a skilled pilot who adds or releases hot air through the propane burners.
In the breaking dawn, the Sandia Mountains rose like a bulwark in the desert landscape surrounding the city of Albuquerque. The morning sun lit up the surroundings in a stunning, misty orange hue. Safely aloft, the wind led us along the ridges of the mountain. We could see a couple more multicolored balloons dotting the horizon.
After an hour in the air, it was time to descend. Our flight ended in a large field miles away from the starting point, as dictated by the wind current. On a celebratory note, all of us were handed a glass of champagne; a safe return to the land calls for a joyous spirit, our pilot remarked.
Cultural Capital of the Southwest
We then headed to Albuquerque Old Town to soak in the spirit of the Southwest and have a relaxed breakfast. The Old Town is the historic heart of the city, a fusion of Spanish heritage and Native American cultures, with the San Felipe de Neri Parish, adobe buildings and a number of artisan shops dotting its streets. The cobblestone streets and plaza-like architecture with Native American artwork reflect Albuquerque’s ethnic tapestry, making it the “cultural capital” of the Southwest.
Later in the afternoon, we drove to the famed archaeological site, the Petroglyph National Monument, which preserves nearly 25,000 rock carvings made by ancient Pueblo settlers, some dating back to over 3,000 years. The desert terrain, interspersed with arid, volcanic rocks, created a unique landscape as I stood admiringly amidst some rock carvings depicting human figures and religious symbols. The site is indeed a fascinating blend of history, nature and indigenous cultural heritage.
A panoramic ascent
Next day I had an afternoon ticket booked for the Sandia Peak Aerial Tramway to the summit of the 10,378-feet Sandia Mountains. As the tram glided over rugged canyons and towering rock formations, the panoramic views of Albuquerque city and the Rio Grande Valley set against distant desert landscapes shimmering in the afternoon sun offered a meditative respite in this cradle of Nature. When I disembarked from the tram at the top, I noticed a marked decrease in the temperature as the crisp mountain air welcomed me. Feeling energized, I ventured into one of the hiking trails covered in snow and winding through lush pine and aspen forests. I felt exhilarated by the physical activity, the cold wind on my face and a panorama of thousands of miles before my eyes.
The sun was about to set on the horizon when I returned from my hike. Witnessing this stunning sunset from the mountain peak was indeed an unforgettable experience.
Taos, Santa Fe and Los Alamos
The next day, I drove from Albuquerque to Taos, stopping at Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, offering deep canyon views and lush river valleys. The steel arch bridge spanning the gorge is a popular stop for nature photographers.
As I approached Taos, the Sangre de Cristo Mountains loomed dramatically over the town, enveloping its famed Pueblo architecture, art galleries, and adventure haven. I headed directly to Taos Pueblo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in North America, dating back over 1,000 years. Admiring the multistoried adobe buildings, made primarily of mud and straw, and interacting with local Puebloan inhabitants who still maintain a traditional way of living, left me in awe of their rich heritage.
Driving into Santa Fe was another scenic experience as the city is set against the stunning backdrop of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. As a state capital, it is a vibrant blend of Native American, Spanish, and Western influences and is known for its adobe architecture. I marveled at the historic Santa Fe Plaza, behind which runs the famed Canyon Road, a hub of thriving art galleries that make Santa Fe the country’s third-largest art market after New York and San Francisco. I spent considerable time admiring the famous paintings of Georgia O’Keeffe, who called New Mexico home and shaped modern American art with her portrayals of nature and desert landscapes, displayed in the eponymous museum.
Heading back to Albuquerque the next day, I decided to take a detour to Los Alamos, known as the birthplace of the Manhattan Project, where the atomic bomb was developed during the Second World War. It’s a town steeped in scientific history and natural beauty, surrounded by the mountain landscape of the Jemez Mountains. My stops included Bradbury Science Museum, which showcases the town’s pivotal role in nuclear research, White Rock Overlook with its stunning canyon view, and then hiking in Bandelier National Monument, home to ancient Puebloan cliff dwellings. Los Alamos is indeed a curious mix of science, history and nature.
A call to embrace adventure
The spirit of New Mexico’s untamed outdoors and rich culture lingers in my memory. From soaring above Albuquerque in a hot air balloon to tracing ancient petroglyphs, from the breathtaking heights of Sandia Peak to the art-filled streets of Taos and Santa Fe, every moment has been a blend of thrill and discovery. American author Cormac McCarthy spent considerable time living in Santa Fe and wrote his novels like No Country for Old Men and Blood Meridian that capture the spirit of adventurous living that New Mexico exemplifies. I am still invigorated by its open invitation to explore, to embrace adventure, and to leave with stories as vast as the Southwestern skies.
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