Chennai’s Carnatic Season
The city of Chennai is known for its long summers, wet Diwalis, and numerous beaches that are a perennial attraction with visitors and residents alike. It is also known for its cinema industry which has produced multiple chief ministers and numerous politicians. Undoubtedly the headquarters for Carnatic music, Chennai has produced numerous artists, a place where thousands of school-going kids learn the different art forms from established “gurus.” Like Los Angeles for American Cinema, and Detroit for automobiles, Chennai is the quintessential Carnatic music hub.
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The most interesting aspect of Chennai is how the city transforms in December and January every year. This period is known as “Margazhi” in the Indian calendar, which runs between the middle of December and the middle of January. It has a special religious significance. While concerts (called “Kutcheris” in Tamil) happen all year long, there are several factors that make the Margazhi period the most popular season for Carnatic music.
In many ways, it’s a “festival” of music. Hundreds of artists – local and international, big and small, vocalists and instrumentalists – perform in Chennai’s famous halls (called “Sabhas”) in front of thousands of music lovers, referred to affectionately as “Rasikas” by the artists themselves. Elaborate schedules are drawn months before the season starts, with several concerts stacked from morning to late evening at each hall. Fans grab season passes and tickets as soon as they are released, while front-row concert seats sell at a premium. There is no “vacation” day during this music festival of music – concerts happen on New Year’s Day as well. It is truly a “celebration” of Carnatic music in every sense of the word.
The COVID Concerts
During the COVID years, some concerts went online, but after the return to normalcy, live concerts have come back in full strength. The beauty of Carnatic music is in the spontaneity of the kutcheri, the inventive nature of the rendition, and the un-rehearsed coordination between the vocalists and the instrumentalists enjoyed in the ambiance of crowded halls full of fellow fans silently mouthing or nodding and tapping to the songs. It is all these elements that Chennai embraces year after year, making it the worldwide capital for Carnatic music.
Thyagaraja Aradhana
The season eventually culminates with the “Thyagaraja Aradhana” held in the town of Thiruvaiyaru, down south from Chennai. The event held this year between Jan. 14 and Jan. 18 is named after the revered saint Thyagaraja, whose compositions, alongside those of the other two great composers who make up the Trinity of Carnatic music – Syama Sastry and Muthuswami Dikshitar – are rendered by all the artists during their performances.
While the Margazhi season has been happening for several generations now, the spirit and fervor has stood the test time. The Kutcheris at the Sabhas continue to be massively popular amongst folks of all demographics., whether newbies or seasoned follower sof the art form, there is plenty to savor during Margazhi.
For non-music lovers, the Sabhas also offer classical dance performances (Bharatnatyam is the region’s own dance form) and even live plays by popular drama troupes.
A Food Lover’s Paradise
Though it’s almost impossible not to catch the art bug, for other visitors, the local Chennai food scene has become another highlight of the Margazhi concert season. Almost every Sabha canteen that offers tasty bites during concert breaks has completely transformed over the last few years. Caterers who sign lucrative contracts with concert halls now offer elaborate, multiple thali meals on traditional banana leaf, while a long list of “tiffin” choices and coffee is available all day.
In fact, Sabhas have become spots where catering contracts for weddings are decided and signed. Families go on a food-tasting tour from one Sabha to another, while trying to finalize most suitable caterer for upcoming wedding ceremonies.
For those who prefer to experience the kutcheris from the comfort of their home, all the local TV channels broadcast recorded versions of the live concerts, interspersed with juicy nuggets and Q&As with the artists. Irrespective of the medium, the season of Margazhi is filled with unlimited music regardless of where you are in the musical spectrum.
By Dhanyasy School of Music – https://www.flickr.com/photos/dhanyasy-org/34486478074/, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=100497009