Waterborne beauties
With its irresistible old-world charm and Kettuvallam boats, Alappuzha, known as the ‘cleanest city in India’, is one of Kerala’s most idyllic and popular backwater destinations. Caressed by the Arabian Sea in the west and crisscrossed by a labyrinth of waterways, Alappuzha is often extolled by travelers as the ‘Venice of the East.’
Its vast network of lakes, lagoons, and freshwater rivers is famous for the Kettuvallam – a ‘boat made of knots.’ The entire boat is assembled without using a single nail – coir ropes tied in knots hold the entire structure of the boat together. Today, over 400 Kettuvallam houseboats dot the Alappuzha backwaters, most of them equipped with furnished rooms, toilets, and a long strip of verandah. Yet one thing that remains untouched despite these makeovers is the assurance of witnessing the best dawn of your life. The tender green of paddy fields and far-flung Chinese fishing nets add to the splendid charm of the sunrise.
While riding the Kettuvallam, spare a glance towards the banks of coconut trees and you may catch sight of a man in a checkered lungi, an earthen pot and knife strapped to his hip, clambering up a coconut palm in quest of some fresh toddy. As if the beaches and seafood weren’t enough of a draw, visitors can buy fresh fish from local fishermen, learn how to wrap a plantain leaf to make the perfect ‘fish pollichathu,’ and shop for unique coir mats from Allapuzha’s historic coir-retting factories. Nautical enthusiasts will enjoy the annual boat races that Kerala is famous for.
At Alappuzha Beach, one can walk into the sea because of an American adventurer named Captain Crawford who built its pier. As waves dash under their feet, people look back to a tall, white-washed lighthouse left behind on the sandy shores, where lively groups of visitors engage in impromptu football games while vendors sell piping hot steamed chana.
Rice Bowl of Kerala
At the center of the backwaters lies Kuttanad, the ‘Rice Bowl of Kerala,’ where soft breezes ruffle green waves across paddy fields. This is one of the few places in the world where farming happens 1.5 to 2 meters below sea level.
Paddy, sown into water-clogged fields by hand, is harvested two seasons later and brings an earthy undertaste to dishes, often accompanied by pot-based, tamarind fish curry. Bananas, cassava, and yams peep out of every backyard. Champakulam sits on the banks of the Pamba River, which is popular for its Moolam boat race and St. Mary’s Forane Church, one of the oldest churches in India.
Architectural Beauty of Krishnapuram Palace
The Krishnapuram Palace is home to an exquisite piece of art from the 18th century – a three-meter-high mural that depicts the story of Gajendramoksham (the salvation of Gajendra, a mythological elephant). This is one of the largest murals in Kerala. Situated near the Krishnapuram temple, on a miniature hillock nestled between the terraced gardens and ponds, is the Ettukettu Palace, built by King Marthanda Varma. Famous for its antique paintings, sculptures, and bronze artifacts, this palace features dormer windows, red-oxide floors, and a gabled roof, an architectural style faintly reminiscent of the Padmanabhapuram Palace.
Padippuras, doors with cached plans, and a history of conspiracies, and treason, draw visitors through long corridors into rooms that belonged to former rulers whose riches are displayed on shelves and cases. The glimmer of a double-sided sword once used by the Kayamkulam kings reignites warrior tales of yore.
Pandavan Rock & Jain Temple
The Pandavan Rock at Alleppey, 46 km from Alappuzha, and a popular picnic spot, is the only historic location mentioned in the mythological stories of the Mahabharata. It is believed these caves sheltered the Pandavas while they wandered through the jungles during their exile.
Two kilometers from Alappuzha, a beautiful and impressive Jain temple devoted to the Jain Tirthankara Vasupujya Swami, is famous for its design and artwork. The temple, made of white marble and Rajasthan stones has an intricate dome. Four statues of Tirthankaras (11th, 12th, 13th, and 15th) stand sentinel as the idol of the 23rd Tirthankara Parshvanatha watches devotees from the temple’s top floor.
Coir, crystal, and umbrellas
Among its many attributes, Alappuzha has the distinction of being the ‘umbrella capital’ of Kerala, with shops in the Mullakkal Market or Canal Bazar selling varieties of umbrellas ranging from a five-fold to an ultra-light version that weighs just 28 grams.
Alappuzha, famously, is home to the country’s coir industry and also has a thriving paper trade. The International Coir Museum showcases revolutionary processes in the development of the coir industry over the years such as retting and fiber extraction, and the advent of mechanization. A short movie takes visitors through the world of coir over the ages with information on its origin and growth, as well as the latest developments born of research and development.
The Ravi Karunakaran Memorial Museum is dedicated to Ravi who played a pivotal role in the development of the coir industry. A remarkable personality, Karunakaran also was an avid collector of exquisite works of art and eventually became the custodian of many fabulous masterpieces from around the world. The museum houses an incredible collection of ivory artifacts and Tanjore paintings, as well as crystal ware from the world-renowned Swarovski., while the ‘Kerala Room’ celebrates the decor and architectural marvels of Kerala.
Image: Kettuvallam. (2023, December 5). In Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettuvallam
