Fermented Foods Are A Boost To Gut Health

Fermented foods increase microbiomes, immunity

In recent years, a growing body of research shows that a diet that includes fermented foods can bring many benefits. Stanford researchers discovered that a 10-week diet high in fermented foods boosts microbiome diversity and improves immune responses. Brining and pickling have been used for centuries as simple and effective methods of food preservation. Fermentation converts carbohydrates into alcohol or organic acids using microorganisms—yeasts or bacteria—while inhibiting oxygen. These foods have enhanced flavors, and they increase the diversity of our gut microbes, associated with improved health.

In India, fermented foods have been consumed for centuries, including yogurt, fermented idli, dosa dhokla, khaman, ambala, and even our naans and bhaturas. Our meals at home always end with a tall glass of chaas (spiced buttermilk) known to aid digestion. I remember my grandmother pickling cabbage, onions, carrots, cucumbers, ginger and cauliflower. It made life easier—less food waste—and those foods tasted so good with roti or rice.

“A little science experiment that you get to eat”

Recently, I started looking into ways I can ferment my foods at home. Through a friend, I was introduced to Kirsten Shockey and Christopher Shockey, authors of several award-winning books on fermentation. The Shockeys got their start in fermenting foods over 20 years ago on 40 acres of wooded hillside on unceded Takelma territory, which grew into their organic food company. They realized their passion lay in the desire to both teach people how to ferment and push this culinary art to add new flavors. They lead experiential workshops worldwide and online helping people make, enjoy, and connect with their food through fermentation. Kirsten is a co-founder of The Fermentation School, a women-owned and women-led virtual school that supports independent educators. 

“Fermenting is fun. Each batch is a little science experiment that you get to eat,” says Kirsten. 

Their book, Fermented Vegetables, is my go-to bible. It has step-by-step techniques, troubleshooting tips, types of salts you should and should not use, and lots of recipes. Some of the chutneys are now on regular rotation in my house. Fermented cilantro coconut (page 245) and fermented onion chutney (page 287), and the fermented garlic are so good! The depth of flavor is unmatched. 

It all starts with one vegetable, one recipe, one jar. The Shockeys have shared some recipes to get you started. Happy fermenting! 

Excerpted from Fermented Vegetables 10thAnniversary Edition© by Kirsten K. Shockey and Christopher Shockey. Used with permission from Storey Publishing. 

Beet-Celery Fermented Salad

This fermented salad is based on Eastern European flavor profiles; it highlights the beets, while the celery brings a lightness to the flavor. The biggest trick here is to make sure the beets are sliced thinly—we use a mandolin.

INGREDIENTS

• 4 small beets
• 1 medium bunch celery
• 1 medium red onion
• 1 tablespoon (17 g) unrefined salt
• 1 teaspoon (2 g) whole peppercorns, freshly ground (1½ teaspoons ground)
• ¼–½teaspoon (0.5–1 g) ground allspice
• 3 whole cloves, freshly ground (¼ teaspoon ground)

PREPARATION

1. Rinse and peel the beets. Slice as thinly as possible, ideally with a mandolin. Place in a large bowl. Use the mandolin on the same thin setting to slice the celery and red onion and add them to the bowl with the beets. Save the top round of the onion or the butt of the celery to use as a follower.
2. Add the salt, plus pepper, allspice, and cloves and massage them into the vegetables, using your hands. Then taste. You should be able to taste the salt without it being overwhelming; add more salt if necessary. (Because the celery has natural salts, you may not need any more salt.) The vegetables should begin to look wet and limp, and liquid will pool. However, if you don’t see much brine, let the mixture stand, covered, for 45 minutes, then massage again.
3. Transfer the mixture to a 2-quart jar or crock, a handful at a time, pressing down to remove the air pockets. You should see some brine on top of the mixture when you press. If you don’t, return the mixture to the bowl and massage again.
4. Top the kraut with the reserved onion top or celery butt to keep everything submerged. Follow the instructions for your fermentation vessel. For a jar, if using the burping method, make sure there is little headspace and seal lid tightly. Burp daily or as needed. Alternatively, top the ferment with a quart-size zip lock bag. Press the bag down onto the top of the ferment and then fill it with water and seal.
5. Set your fermentation vessel on a plate in a spot where you can keep an eye on it, out of direct sunlight, and let ferment for 4 to 14 days. Check regularly to make sure the kraut is submerged, pressing down, as needed, to bring the brine back to the surface. Start taste-testing after 4 or so days. This kraut has a rich, deep flavor. You’ll know it’s ready when these flavors are developed, with an acidic or pickle-like undertone, and the colors have melded to a magical fuchsia.
6. When the kraut is ready, transfer to smaller jars, if necessary, and tamp down. Pour in any brine that’s left. Tighten the lids, then store in the fridge. The kraut will keep, refrigerated, for up to 10 months.

IN THE PICKLE JAR: Beet slices, beet spears, tiny whole peeled beets—they all make wonderful pickles. However, for people accustomed to the soft, sweet, acidic flavor of vinegar-pickled beets, these are a surprise, as the beets stay quite firm—their texture is that of raw beets. Slice them thinly.

Simple Onion Relish

• 5 large onions
• 1–1½tablespoons (17–25 g) unrefined salt
• 1 tablespoon (9 g) mustard seeds
• 1 teaspoon (3 g) ground cumin
• Grape leaf or parchment paper, to top the ferment

PREPARATION

1. Trim the onions by making shallow, cone-shaped cuts on both ends. Peel away the papery outer layers of skin. With a knife or mandolin, thinly slice the onions crosswise into rings.
2. Transfer the onions to a large bowl and sprinkle in 1 tablespoon of the salt, working it in with your hands. Then taste. You should be able to taste the salt without it being overwhelming. Add more salt as needed. When it’s ready, mix in the mustard seeds and cumin.
3. Pack the onions into a crock or jar, pressing as you go.
4. Place a grape leaf or parchment paper on top. Follow the instructions for your fermentation vessel. For a jar, if using the burping method (page 44) make sure there is little headspace and seal lid tightly. Burp daily or as needed. Alternatively, top the ferment with a quart-size ziplock bag. Press the bag down onto the top of the ferment and then fill it with water and seal.
5. Set your fermentation vessel on a plate in a spot where you can keep an eye on it, out of direct sunlight, and let ferment for 7 to 14 days. Check regularly to make sure the onions are submerged, pressing down as needed to bring the brine to the surface. The onions are done when they are translucent, have lost their sharp bite, and are pickle-y tasting, without the strong acidity of vinegar.
6. To store, transfer to smaller jars, if necessary, and tamp down. Pour in any brine that’s left. Tighten the lids, then store in the fridge, where the onions will keep for 18 months.

Fermented Carrot Achar (Gajar Ka Achar) 

Yield: about 3 cups (710 ml)

Achars, originating in the Himalayan pickling tradition, are widespread on the Indian subcontinent and made with innumerable vegetables and fruits. These pickles are very different from the brine-drenched ferments that most folks are familiar with. In fact, they sit in the sun,  fermenting in a fairly dry mix of spices, ground mustard, and mustard oil. The sun does what the brine does in briny ferments—makes the environment inhospitable to mold and yeasts, in this case by destroying them with UV light. Achar fermentation traditionally uses mustard oil, which has wonderful preservative qualities and flavor but is often hard to find. Olive oil is a suitable substitute. In this recipe, the ground spices, sesame, and oil come together with an almost pesto-like consistency, a counterbalance to the carrots’ crunch. In summer, we like to add a handful of Lemon Gem marigold flowers for a delightful floral quality.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound (450 g) carrots, julienned
• 6 green jalapeño or serrano peppers, julienned
• 1(2-to 3-inch/5–8 cm/13–20 g) piece fresh ginger, finely grated
• 2 tablespoons (45 g) tamarind pulp, seeds removed
• 1½teaspoons (9 g) unrefined salt
• 1 tablespoon (9 g) sesame seeds
• 3 tablespoons (27 g) mustard seeds, toasted
• 1 teaspoon (4 g) fenugreek seeds, lightly toasted
• ½teaspoon (1 g) ground Szechuan pepper
• ½tablespoon (3 g) whole black peppercorns
• 5 tablespoons (74 ml) olive oil

PREPARATION

1. Combine the carrots, jalapeño, ginger, tamarind pulp, and salt in a big bowl. Massage with your hands to mix and disperse the tamarind. Cover the bowl and set aside to rest for 8 hours or overnight. This begins the fermentation.
2. Grind the sesame seeds, mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds, Szechuan pepper, and black peppercorns in a spice grinder. Add to the bowl, along with 2 tablespoons of the oil, and stir well.
3. Pack the mixture into an appropriately sized jar. Pour another 3 tablespoons of the oil over the top of the mixture, then tighten the lid.
4. Set the jar in a sunny window to ferment for 7 to 14 days. If pressure builds under the lid, open briefly to burp. The achar will taste pickle-y and sour when it is ready.
5. Store in the refrigerator, where it will keep for about 1 year.