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A son of Greater Delhi
Ravana, the legendary ruler of Lanka, is one of the most complex figures in Hindu mythology. Best known as the ten-headed demon king from the epic Ramayana, he was a formidable scholar, a devout devotee of Lord Shiva – a master of Vedic wisdom. Despite his deep spirituality and intellect, he is remembered across most of India for his greatest transgression — abducting Sita, the wife of Lord Rama — which ultimately led to his death at the hands of Lord Rama. Every year, his defeat is commemorated during Dussehra, symbolising the triumph of good over evil, with effigies of Ravana burned in public celebrations.
But there’s a lesser-known chapter in Ravana’s story — one that turns this narrative on its head.
Roughly 650 kilometres from Ayodhya, Lord Rama’s birthplace, is the village of Bisrakh Jalalpur in Uttar Pradesh’s Greater Noida. This small village claims to be the birthplace of Ravana himself. And here, far from the fires of Dussehra, he is not reviled — he is revered. In Bisrakh, Ravana is worshipped as a divine figure, remembered not as a villain, but as a great soul — a Brahmin, a Shaivite, and a scholar of unmatched brilliance.
A divine figure
At the heart of the village stands a unique temple dedicated to Ravana. Locals believe it was here that his father, sage Vishrava, lived and meditated. While most of India celebrates Rama’s victory over Ravana, Bisrakh honours its native son with daily rituals and prayers. On Dussehra, instead of burning effigies, the villagers perform havans and pujas in Ravana’s name.
On a hot sunny day, the type which leaves you blistering and parched in Delhi NCR, we decided to explore this famed place which boasts of being Ravana’s birthplace. We knew of this great antagonist from the epic Ramayana; he had abducted Sita and fought against Lord Rama – but a place which celebrates him? How intriguing!
Our auto-driver, a wily little chap, Narendra, followed Google Maps to the location of a temple supposedly dedicated to Ravana. Several locals in the area seemed unaware of the temple, by turns, intrigued, confused, and amazed by our queries.
Finally, we tracked down a shopkeeper who pointed us in the right direction – a footpath that led to the temple. After convincing Narendra to wait for us, we set out for the Ravana temple of Bisrakh.
A temple to Ravana
We crossed through narrow alleyways and on barren land before reaching an ornate gate that led to a temple courtyard. Carvings of Ravana decorated the intricately carved gate, while statues of Ganesha, Lakshmi, and Saraswati perched on top, surrounded by etchings depicting scenes from Ravana’s life.
Confusingly, the temple’s inner sanctum did not contain an idol of Ravana; instead, inside was a shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva — the deity, in fact, whom Ravana is known to have worshipped with great devotion. The lingam stood at the heart of the sanctum, silent and powerful.
As we explored the temple premises, a sadhu, replete with dreadlocks adorned with ornate rings, beckoned to us. Even before we could question him, he explained the absence of a Ravana idol.
“There is regular worship of Ravana, whom we see as a God,” he said. “Aarti and abhishek is done every morning and evening. There is no Idol on display. Woh bahar nahin aati (He does not come out). There is one idol which comes out once a year during Dussehra,” he added.
The life of a Ravana sevait
The devotees, said the sevait, Mehat Ram Das, have commissioned a sculptor in Jaipur to create new idols. “We ordered idols. The smaller one will come in two months’ time. The larger one was almost complete, but developed a crack in the middle, so it will take longer to make.”
Mehat Ram Das has been at the Bisrakh Ravana temple for 30 years. He didn’t care to dwell on his life before he started seva, simply answering our persistent queries with, “How does it matter where I was before this? My rebirth happened here, and I have been staying here since then.”
What he was looking forward to was the arrival of a big statue of Ravana by Dussehra.
Celebrating Ravana
As the world celebrates Ravana’s death by burning huge effigies of him during Diwali, Bisarakh celebrates their son on Dussehra.
“Unlike other places where Ravana effigies are burnt and Ram’s triumph is celebrated, here we have a havan and puja celebrating Ravan,” Das explained. The ceremonies include worship of weapons, from sticks and spears to guns and swords. “The puja is not complete without ashtra-shastra (weaponry),” he confirmed.
Large numbers of devotees attend the celebration to watch the rituals and listen to the sound of accompanying drumbeats. “Dhol nagare ke saath puja hoti hai. Bohut log aate hai. But since the temple is open 24 hours, it does not seem like it,” he explained.
A historic link to Bisrakh
The temple architecture is a living narrative of Ravana’s life. The compound walls are carved with his life story, tracing his origins from Brahma through to his final battle. Murals and etchings show him as a devout scholar, a great king, a musician, and a warrior, not merely the ten-headed demon slain by Rama.
However, there are no traces of Ravana’s lineage in Bisrakh today. “There is no one left from Ravana’s family here,” said Das. “Ravana was born here, but his family emigrated to Lanka. Those who were left have all died. All of this is there in scriptures.”
To Das, the iconic figure from the Mahabharat was more than history or legend. “We see Ravana as God,” he said simply.
As we left the temple, walking back through the village’s narrow paths, our heads still buzzing with this alternate view of mythology, one thing stood out — the power of faith. Bisrakh’s Ravana temple is modest in size but monumental in what it represents: a counter-narrative, a quiet rebellion, and a belief that divinity can wear many faces — even that of a so-called villain.