The first-ever riverside Eco-Glamping initiative by Maharashtra Tourism made me visit Nashik, a small city surrounded by placid lakes, hills, and lush green forests on the banks of the Godavari River. Living in luxurious tents in a city steeped in mythology, famous for its Trimbekashwar temple, and popular for hosting the Kumbh Mela made exploring Nashik a magical experience.

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Legend says that Nashik offered sanctuary to Lord Ram, Sita, and Lakshman during their 14-year exile. The name ‘Nashik’ means ‘nose’ and originates from the story that Lakshman sliced off Surpanakha’s nose when she raided their refuge in the area. Today, Nashik is celebrated for its freedom fighters, forts, industries, farms, treks to temples, and its agricultural bounty – Nashik is a major tomato, onion, grape, and wine-producing region – the city and its surroundings are an ideal getaway from a busy lifestyle.

Panchvati gets its name from the five ancient Banyan trees that anchor the sacred northern banks of the Godavari, where mythology says Rama lived for two and a half years with Sita and Laxman during their 14-year exile; the wall carvings on Panchvati’s many temples tell their story.

Ramkund, located on the banks of the Godavari is Nashik’s holiest spot. Devotees take a dip in the kund during the Kumbh Mela. History comes alive in the temples dotting the area with intricate designs showcasing ancient Indian architecture. From the Ramkund, a narrow path passes by a vegetable market and more temples to the ‘Kalaram Temple.’ Inside, the temple houses three idols formed by nature, giving them the status of ‘swayambhu’ (self-born or that which is created of its own accord.) The temple is called “Kalaram (Black Rama) because both idols and the shrine were constructed of black stones by Sardar Odhekar of Peshwa in 1790. Along the Kalaram temple lane is the smaller Goreram Temple, home to a Rama idol made of white stone.

  • Three black stone idols in a Hindu temple decorated woth garlands
  • A white stone idol of Lord Rama
A narrow cave with steps
Sita Gumpha (photo credit: Maharashtra Tourism)

Sita Gumpha, a cave-like structure situated by the western door of Kalaram Temple, is reputedly Sita’s dwelling and the site of her abduction by Ravana. The Shivalinga that Sita worshiped still sits in the Gumpha – a space one reaches by crawling through a 2.5 to 3 feet entryway and down a narrow passageway with stone steps. Inside one of the two small spaces that comprise the Gumpha sit idols of Rama, Laxmana, and Sita, while the adjoining chamber houses the Shivalinga.

Tapovan on the banks of the Godavari is, as its name suggests, a setting for meditation where statues of Rama, Sita, and Laxman stand sentinel.

Trimbakeshwar Temple, an ancient Hindu temple in the town of Trimbak, is the eighth of twelve Jyotrilinga shrines in India, located at the source of the River Godavari. Mythology says that Shiva appeared as a fiery column of light in the Jyotirlinga shrines, which Shiva worshippers seek as sacred places of pilgrimage. Built by Nana Sahib Peshwa in the 1700s, the Trimbakeshwar Temple exudes a powerful aura that draws thousands of devotees every day. It is the only Jyotirlinga where Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma are also worshiped. The shrine houses a unique, large, swayambhu jyotirlinga, which has a hole rather than a ling in the middle that holds three symbolic lingas of Brahma, Vishnu, and Mahesh inside.

The Nagara-style Trimbakeshwar temple complex and spacious courtyard are constructed of black stone, and beautifully carved pillars decorate the three entrances to the inner sanctum.

A Hindu temple
Trimbakeshwar Temple (photo credit: Suman Bajpai)

The Legend of Gautam Rishi

The Nagara-style Trimbakeshwar temple, constructed of black stone, is located between the Bramhagiri, Neelagiri, and Kalagiri mountain ranges. Its spacious courtyard features three lingas. Legend says that the devout sage Gautam Rishi lived on Brahmagiri with his wife Ahilya. Varuna rewarded Gautam Rishi for his devotion with an inexhaustible supply of grains and food from a bottomless pit. The other rishis, jealous of Gautam Rishi’s good fortune, plotted to place a cow in his granary and caused its death as Gautam Rishi tried to ward the animal off with Darbha grass. To remove the sin of Gau Hatya (killing a cow), Gautam Rishi prayed to Shiva, asking for the Ganga to flow down and purify his hermitage. Pleased with his devotion, Shiva fulfilled his request and made his home by the river Gautami as the Lord Trimbakeshwar.

A black stone linga in a tempe courtyard in Nashik
One of three lingas in the courtyard of the Trimbakeshwar Temple in Nashik (image courtesy: Suman Bajpai)

The Pandavleni Caves are one of Nashik’s hidden gems. Surrounded by a curtain of greenery, it takes a 205-stair climb to reach the top. Located on the Trirashmi hill about 3004 feet above sea level, these 24 rock-cut caves are one of the oldest Buddhist cave complexes in India. Most of the caves are Viharas except for the 18th cave, which is a Chaitya. They were carved between the 3rd Century BC and the 2nd Century A.D and built by the Satwana rulers of that time for Buddhist monks.

A temple cut into the rocks in the hills outside Nashik, India
The Pandavleni Caves rock-cut caves are one of the oldest Buddhist cave complexes in India (image courtesy: Maharashtra Tourism)

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Suman Bajpai is a freelance writer, journalist, editor, translator, traveler, and storyteller based in Delhi. She has written more than 17 books on different subjects and translated around 160 books from...