A rain-drenched hike to Sinhagad Fort
It was an early afternoon in sweltering India during the month of August. Incessant downpour from a dense cover of dark-gray clouds clinging to the cliffs, imbued the day with an optimistic ambience of renewal and rejuvenation. I trudged my way uphill on the isolated cliff of Bhuleswar range of the Sahyadri mountains, about 30 miles from the bustling metropolis of Pune, to visit Sinhagad fort. It is a hill fortress steeped in history, dating back to 1500-2000 years and has stood witness to Mughal and Maratha struggles. It was one of the first forts that Shivaji recaptured from the Mughals, and in modern times, played host to Indian independence leaders like Mahatma Gandhi and Lokmanya Bal Gangadhar Tilak.
And so, on August 15, India’s Independence Day, I set out on this trek, braving the heavy rain and wind of the Indian monsoon. The fort itself sits atop a plateau on the cliff, with its historic ruins scattered across well-marked walking paths. There are several points, including towers at the edges of the cliff, that provide incredible views. I rounded off my visit with a sumptuous local thalli (dish) consisting of bhakri (a kind of bread made from multiple grains), and treaded down the slippery steps of the fortress on my way back.
Sahyadri, Maharashtra’s Western Ghats
Monsoon season in India is a welcome relief from the scorching heat of summer and the countryside, farms and mountain meadows bloom in vivid green, rivers rush forth in full fury, and waterfalls gush down hillsides.
Sahyadri, a chain of rolling hills and green mountains, also called Western Ghats, run parallel to the west coast of India, approximately 30-50 km inland traversing the states of Maharashtra, Gujarat, Goa, Karnataka and Kerala in a 990-mile stretch. The mountain’s forest ecosystem shapes and influences the Indian monsoon weather pattern, in the process harboring one of the eight biodiversity hotspots in the world. Western Ghats is a UNESCO World Heritage Site ; its mist-enveloped mountains are a treat to the weary eyes. The hill stations or resort towns of Lonavala-Khandala, Matheran and Mahabaleshwar, all of them lie in the mountain ranges of Sahyadris in the state of Maharashtra.
Lonavala – Khandala
Lonavala, known as the “jewel of Sahyadri”, is located almost midway between Mumbai and Pune. A short drive from either of these two bustling metropolises takes one to the tranquility of green forests, rolling hills, burbling waterfalls, rock-cut caves and majestic lakes. Driving on Mumbai-Pune Expressway, I marveled at the spectacular natural views as the roads hugged the scenic Sahyadri mountain ranges, through mountain passes and tunnels. The NH48 merges with this expressway near Khandala for a short distance and it took a lot of patience to navigate the dense traffic.
The drive took me through busy city streets with picturesque lush green hills on the horizon, providing numerous view points, with the Sahyadri ranges surrounding us like an amphitheater. The numerous colors of vehicles on the road, street hoardings and lush greenery of surroundings, all came together like an incredible canvas painting. I stopped at some of the touristy spots, including Tiger’s Leap, Bhushi dam and Karla caves. As the night fell, the dense fog enveloped the lush greenery around, making visibility difficult; but the constant pitter-patter of the rain heightened my hearing, and I lulled myself into the rhythm of unhurried driving.
Matheran, a tiny hill station
The next day, I drove to one of India’s smallest hill stations, Matheran, climbing the steep sections of Western Ghats along the Neral-Matheran hill road. This quaint, small town preserves its idyllic life and natural beauty by not allowing any motorized vehicles within its precincts. As I walked to Echo Point, one of the several viewpoints, the lush-green forests and mist-covered hills projected its serene and soothing air that calmed my senses. Hiking along the red mud pathways (there are no paved roads in Matheran), I found company with several people choosing to cover the distance on horseback. The breathtaking panorama from ‘Monkey Point’ overlooking sections of the Western Ghats laden with verdant ridges and a lake, is a marvel of pristine nature.
Panchgani and Mahabaleshwar
With an urge to explore more of the Sahyadri hill stations, I hit the road to Panchgani, named after the five hills that surround it. The monsoon rain was down to a drizzle as we reached Panchgani, but the clouds hung low to the ground. After having a breakfast of authentic Maharshtrian misal-pav, we explored the area around Kate’s Point and Table Land. The picturesque vistas overlooking Krishna river coupled with the breezy weather stirred my soul. From Panchgani, we drove the section of winding Ghats up a steep gradient to reach Mahabaleshwar, a vast plateau nestled nearly 4,500 ft above sea level in Sahyadri, surrounded by valleys on all sides. This picturesque location provides some sweeping views of nature in its full glory with mountains, valleys, rivers, waterfalls and forests.
The stunning vista at the Elephant’s Head Point overlooked natural rock formations that bear an uncanny resemblance to the shape of an elephant head and trunk. As the rain subsided briefly, the sunrays parted the clouds, revealing the valley below and the surrounding mountains in all their lush green glory. On the way back, we stopped at Harrison’s Folly Point, enjoying jaw-dropping sceneries of cliffs, valleys and a river on three sides overlooking the town of Panchgani.
Indeed, witnessing monsoon amidst the green hills of Western Ghats is a perfect antidote to our busy lives.