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Kati Ghati: The ancient arch of Chanderi
A winding road flanked by craggy hills and sparse vegetation led to Kati Ghati in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, where an imposing arched gateway welcomes visitors. As the day progressed towards dusk, there was an urgency in the crowd gathered at the place. Amidst shouts and shrieks, influencers posed and cameras clicked. After all, this is the spot made memorable in the Hindi horror comedy, Stree (2018). In the first part of the movie, Shraddha Kapoor bids adieu to dil ka darzi Rajkummar Rao and boards a bus from here.
Unlike the mystery surrounding Kapoor in the film, Kati Ghati’s history is transparent. An inscription reads that the arch was built by cutting a solid rock. Measuring 80 feet in height, 39 feet in width and 192 feet in length, it is believed to have been commissioned by Jiman Khan in 1490 AD, the son of the governor of the historical town of Chanderi. This ancient town in Madhya Pradesh’s Ashoknagar district, bordering Malwa and Bundelkhand regions, finds a mention in the Mahabharata too. Sishupala, the King of Chedi (now in Madhya Pradesh), who was eventually beheaded by Shri Krishna, is credited with establishing Chanderi.
The town’s cobbled streets, narrow lanes and architectural marvels take visitors back in time. Chanderi Ka Tana Bana, a light and sound show organised at the fort in the evenings, mesmerises the audience with its rich history. The fort’s Khooni Darwaza transforms into a character in the tale and narrates the victory of Mughal emperor Babur over Malwa ruler Medini Rai in 1528.
Then Bollywood came calling…
Overshadowed by gems like Khajuraho and Orchha, Chanderi has been slow to arrive on the tourism map of Madhya Pradesh. But it has caught up since Bollywood made its foray with films like Sui Dhaaga, Kalank and Stree.
About 450 meters from the scenic Kati Ghati is Tent City, a luxurious accommodation with 25 tents for tourists. Sachin Sahu works at Tent City as a sound and light electrician. His family has lived in the town for 25 years. Sahu gets busiest in the evenings when music is played, drinks are poured, and tourists sway to songs. “Before the films put the spotlight on Chanderi, outsiders weren’t familiar with the place,” he said.
How films bolstered a saree haven
Though Chanderi, along with Maheshwar, was already known for its sarees, it is the film industry that has transformed the town like nothing else.
About 20 years back, Chanderi was a sleepy town, says 28-year-old weaver Rajit Koli. Not any longer. “Tourists make it a point to visit the Raja Rani Mahal, which was used extensively during the shooting of Stree 2, said Koli. A number of films, and the web series Rangbaaz, were shot here.
“I want more films to be made. When a town gains fame, businesses do well. It bolsters the handloom industry too, as many buyers now meet weavers directly,” added Koli.
In the twilight hour, as the sun painted the sky with myriad hues of orange and red, our guide, Mohammad Ansari, recalled Chanderi’s glorious handloom tradition, which has continued since 1304. Even today, hundreds of weavers operate wooden looms in their homes to weave magic into sarees.
“A slowdown happened during Covid-19 when 60 percent of the looms closed down in just three months,” said Ansari. This impacted over 1,000 weaver families, leading to losses to the tune of ₹20 million. “But once the dreadful time passed, the shadow was lifted. The town bounced back and 1,500 more looms opened,” said Ansari.
Ansari agrees that Bollywood has boosted tourism. There are 22 hotels in Chanderi apart from Tent City. In the past three years, over 100,000 visitors have come to see Chanderi. Ansari said the bustling lanes became a hit after Stree made a direct reference to the town.
Chaat seller Mahesh Rathod is satisfied with the change. His fast-food stall on a busy road, specialising in aloo tikki, runs well till 9 pm, thanks to endless hungry travellers.
The Stree Experience
At the entrance of the Raja Rani Mahal, a local resident, Dinesh Jain, recalled taking an active part in the film’s shooting and helping out the crew. “During the filming, the surrounding area became congested. Many onlookers were barred from the site to avoid chaos. People wanted to take a close look at the cameras, never seen in a small place like this before,” said Jain.
Apart from the Raja Rani Mahal, places like the Kila Kothi, Jageswari Temple and Badal Mahal have gained a loyal fan following, said Jain, as he pointed out a tailoring shop, Modern Tailor 1947, located near the mahal. It was Rajkumar Rao’s shop in Stree, in which he essayed the role of a tailor.
In one of Chanderi’s narrow lanes lined with small shops and vegetable vendors, a local, Preeti Jain, informed that the scene where Jana, a character played by Abhishek Banerjee in the film, is abducted, was filmed near her house. However, Jain did not watch the shooting, which happened at night. “When the shooting started, many of us couldn’t open our gates and doors to avoid disturbing the shoot,” she said.
According to her neighbour Mukesh Kumar Jain, tourists come in droves to see the locations used in the films, driving up the local hospitality business. Some locals show visitors around at a nominal charge of ₹500 per day.
Ansari, who as a guide typically refrained from mentioning ghost stories as these could scare away visitors, now finds that it’s the ghost in Stree that draws hordes to Chanderi.
Chanderi’s eco retreats and adventures
A light and sound show at the Chanderi Fort in Madhya Pradesh, India, narrates its history. (Photo by Deepanwita Gita Niyogi) 
The ancient Indian town of Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, is lined with narrow, cobblestoned streets. This lane was used during the filming of the Hindi horror comedy, “Stree”. (Photo by Deepanwita Gita Niyogi) 
The ancient Indian town of Chanderi is dotted with cobbled streets and old structures. (Photo by Deepanwita Gita Niyogi) 
The Badal Mahal in Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, India. (Photo by Deepanwita Gita Niyogi)
Besides Bollywood ghosts and saree looms, Chanderi also offers tourists natural locales, peaceful retreats and adventure activities. Life in the city’s crammed lanes and its friendly inhabitants, who freely offer their unique insights, are just as engaging for visitors.
With Chanderi attracting a high footfall, sustainability is high on the agenda of local authorities. Sheo Shekhar Shukla, the principal secretary and managing director of the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board, highlights the state’s efforts to meet their mission of responsible tourism; this includes creating eco retreats like the Tent City and maintaining cleanliness.
“The state tourism board offers rural travel destinations, local art, culture and heritage, waste management, and community empowerment through the creation of homestays,” informed Shukla. “To prevent overcrowding in one place, Madhya Pradesh is also promoting new places [like Ladpura Khas near Khajuraho] as a balance. This focus on responsible tourism safeguards our rich heritage and natural beauty for future generations,” he said.