Heritage cooking the Amrikan way
We all love our mom’s cooking. It’s what comforts us. I think nostalgia plays a big role. Recently, during my daily call with my dad, we were reminiscing about how the taste of our cook’s food was nowhere near what mom made. This is why, when my adult son says he loves everything I make, I’ve been encouraging him to learn how to cook, not just as a skill one needs to have, but as a way to connect to his heritage. When I came across Khushbu Shah’s debut book, Amrikan, I thought it was perfect for every diaspora kid.
A Contributing Editor at Food & Wine, Shah was also the youngest restaurant editor of the magazine. Her book is a delightful dive into the world of Indian-American cuisine, blending the rich traditions of Indian cooking with the vibrant flavors of American culture.
Indian fare with peanut butter and cream cheese
“People don’t believe me when I say that you can make Indian food with peanut butter, Bisquick, ketchup, and cream cheese — but you can — and I prove it with this book,” says Shah. What makes this cookbook special is how it captures Shah’s journey and the broader Indian-American experience. The recipes are not just instructions; they come with stories and cultural tidbits that give each dish more depth. Whether it’s a classic Indian dish with a modern twist or a completely new creation, Shah’s recipes are approachable and fun to try, even if you’re not a seasoned cook.
There are recipes for classic dishes like khichdi, rajma, rasam, and yes, butter chicken. The book also has a whole chapter on Indian pizza. There are clever shortcuts and dishes born out of scarcity and adaptation. “And there are recipes that just represent how I like to cook, as the child of Indian immigrants, raised in America, with a global pantry. I also include a saag paneer lasagna recipe that will change your life and win you friends,” quips Shah.
She is determined to prove with this book that Indian food isn’t insanely complicated, or ridiculously spicy. That Indian food is American food. That Indian food should be in regular rotation in your kitchen if it isn’t already. Here, she shares a couple of recipes to get you started.
Excerpted from “Amrikan: 125 Recipes from the Indian American Diaspora”. Copyright © 2024 by Khushbu Shah. Photographs © 2024 by Aubrie Pick. Used with permission of the publisher, W.W. Norton & Company. All rights reserved.
Chili Cheese Toast
Serves 4
I will never understand how avocado became the most famous of the toasts, when chili cheese toast exists. This isn’t to say that avocado toast isn’t delicious, but the combination of cheese, green chiles, and chaat masala is unrivaled—I want to eat it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Many versions (including this one) feature tiny pieces of bell pepper folded into the melty cheese, which gives the dish a nice texture. (You can leave these out if you hate bell peppers!) I like to slather my bread with cream cheese before adding the other toppings because of the creaminess it brings to the toast. I also use pickled jalapeños because they’re milder, and that pickled flavor complements everything here so well.
INGREDIENTS
- 2 tablespoons cream cheese or whipped cream cheese, at room temperature
- 4 slices white sandwich bread
- 1/2 cup shredded cheese (mozzarella + cheddar is ideal)
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped red bell pepper
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped green bell pepper
- 6 to 8 pickled jalapeños, finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
- 1 tablespoon Chaat Masala
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano or Italian seasoning
- Ketchup, for serving
PREPARATION
- Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
- Spread 1/2 tablespoon cream cheese evenly across each slice of bread and place on the prepared baking sheet.
- In a small bowl, combine the shredded cheese, onion, bell peppers, jalapeños, and cilantro and mix well. Stir in the chaat masala, garlic powder, and oregano. Divide the cheese mixture evenly between the slices of bread, spreading it evenly across the cream cheese mixture.
- Bake the toasts for 7 to 9 minutes, until the cheese is melty and the bread is crispy. Cut each toast into 3 strips or 4 triangles. Serve with ketchup for dipping.
Ingredient Note
As for the cheese, I prefer a blend of mozzarella and cheddar, but use any cheese that you like, as long as it melts well. Make sure to shred the cheese yourself. Pre-shredded cheeses are often coated so they do not clump, but this coating can sometimes prevent it from melting.
Freezer Note
This does not freeze well.
Endive and Paneer Salad with Tamarind Chutney Vinaigrette
Right after I graduated college, there was this shortlived and, quite frankly, not well executed Chipotle-style Indian bowl restaurant five blocks away from the apartment I was subletting in the financial district in New York City. It was affordable and filling and hit my cravings for Indian flavors on the regular. It was one of those places where you picked your starch (I always chose rice), your protein (always paneer), various toppings (lots of lettuce, raw onions, and tomatoes), and a sauce of your choice.
One time they were out of my go-to, so I settled for tamarind chutney. It was far too sweet and nearly ruined my bowl, but I found myself thinking that tamarind chutney could be the base for a good salad dressing. It was a question of adding more acid, and a fat to balance it out. Since tamarind chutney is on the sweeter end, I like to use it to counter a bitter leaf like endive. Fry the paneer cubes right before serving so that they do not become chewy or hard. You could easily use halloumi cheese instead of paneer. The dressing and salad come together quickly, if you have the chutney on hand.
INGREDIENTS
- Tamarind Chutney Vinaigrette
- 1/2 cup Tamarind Chutney (page 52)
- 1/2 cup neutral oil
- 1/4 cup water
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 1/2 shallot, minced
- Salad
- 2 teaspoons neutral oil
- 3 ounces paneer, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- 1 (5- to 6-ounce) package Little Gem lettuce, baby romaine, or romaine lettuce hearts
- 1 head endive, leaves separated
- 1 shallot, sliced into thin rings
- 2 tablespoons seasoned bread crumbs, toasted
PREPARATION
- Combine all of the vinaigrette ingredients in a jar, cover, and shake until well combined. Set aside.
- Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the paneer and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until lightly browned. Transfer the paneer to a plate and let it cool for a few minutes. While the paneer is cooling, arrange the lettuce and endive leaves on a large platter.
- Evenly spread the shallot rings on top, then scatter the paneer and bread crumbs over everything just before serving. Dress with a couple tablespoons of the vinaigrette.