Shiva temples were nerve centers of Chola power
India is home to several temples dedicated to Lord Mahadev, also known as Lord Shiva. These temples are not only of religious significance but also have tremendous historical and archaeological importance. The Great Living Chola Temples of Tamil Nadu are known for their architectural brilliance; they represent a glorious period in the history of the Cholas.
The Cholas, who established their rule in the 9th century CE, were great patrons of art, architecture, and religion. They built massive temples that were not only sites of worship but also nerve centers for arts and crafts to flourish. These temples were major hubs for socio-economic and political activity. The Great Living Chola Temples, which have been designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, include three magnificent temples built between the 11th and 13th centuries. The site includes the Brihadisvara Temple at Thanjavur, the Brihadisvara Temple at Gangaikondacholisvaram, and the Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram. The norms of daily worship and rituals established centuries ago are actively followed in these temples today, and form an intrinsic part of the life and culture of the people living here. I have a keen interest in both history and religion, so I packed my bags and headed out on a journey to explore the temples. And they did not disappoint.
Brihadisvara Temple, Thanjavur
This temple is located in Tanjore or Thanjavur, about 220 miles from the capital city of Chennai. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple is often called Thanjai Periya Kovil (Thanjavur Big Temple) and was built by Chola king Raja Raja Chola I and was completed in 1010 AD. The temple turned 1,000 years old in 2010. It is one of the biggest Hindu temples in India and boasts a massive vimana (tower), 208 feet in height. The entire temple is a lesson in superior planning and impeccable craftsmanship and has been built according to the principles of axial symmetry. The east-facing temple is built in a rectangular plan and the complex includes the main sanctum with the towering vimanam, the Nandi mandapam, the main community hall (mukhamandapam), the great gathering hall (mahamandapam), and the pavilion that connects the great hall with the sanctum.
One of the most visited places in Tamil Nadu, this temple is often touted as one of the grandest Chola creations and is a fitting representation of their might and power. Lord Shiva is depicted as a linga in the temple, one of the largest in India.
The temple is full of architectural marvels. The towering vimana has been built solely by interlocking stones that distribute the pressure evenly. An 80-tonne stone was erected on top of the vimana at a time when there were no cranes or heavy machinery. The nearly 20-foot Nandi weighing 25 tonnes, has been crafted from a single piece of stone. Scores of ornately carved sculptures adorn the temple façade, and beautifully painted frescoes depict stories of the past.
Brihadisvara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram
Built by Rajendra Chola, this temple dates back to 1035 AD. It was Rajendra Chola who designated the town of Gangaikonda Cholapuram as the capital of the Cholas. Built on the model of the big temple of Thanjavur, this one also stands in a square plan, with the main temple standing on an elevated structure. Lord Shiva is depicted as a 13-foot tall lingam. The main tower of the temple is 185 feet high. Crafted from granite, the sculptures adorning the ceiling and walls of the temple are nothing short of spectacular. The sculptures of deities like Lord Ganesha, the dancing Nataraja, Goddess Saraswat, and Lord Shiva, are not to be missed. There are several bronze statues in the temple depicting the Chola craft that flourished during the 11th century. Various forms of Goddess Durga and Lord Vishnu are also depicted on the facade of the temple.
Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram
Yet another awe-inspiring temple built by the Cholas, the Airavatesvara Temple is located about three kilometers off Kumbakonam and was built by Chola emperor Rajaraja II in the 12th century. This temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva and has been named after the divine vehicle of Lord Indra, which is a white elephant called Airavat. Legend has it that Airavat prayed to Lord Shiva after being cursed by Sage Durvasa for disrespecting him. The elephant had lost its white color, which was regained after Lord Shiva instructed him to take a dip in the holy tank of the temple. Even today pilgrims believe that taking a dip in the temple tank will relieve them of their problems.
With stone sculptures that are sheer poetry in stone, the artwork of the temple stands out for its stunning detail and timeless beauty. Sculptures depicting river Goddesses like the Cauvery, Ganges, Yamuna, Godavari, and Narmada, historically significant ancient inscriptions, spectacular pillars, ornately carved steps that emanate the sound of musical notes, and reliefs that depict the tales of the 63 Shaiva Bhakti saints called Nayanars, are just some of the unique features of this historical temple.
Darasuram is also a place known for silk weaving. If you are looking for a souvenir, a hand-woven silk saree is a great idea!
I returned from this trip feeling enriched. I was awed by how skilled and architecturally brilliant our craftsmen were even a thousand years ago, and how the temples were more than just religious centers; they functioned as hubs where social and community life flourished. These grand structures are a testament to our rich heritage and culture that will endure for generations.