Travel

Architectural Wonders

Architectural Wonders

“Bad times befall gods same as mortals—that is how I see it,” Selvaraj, our driver for the week, said with some finality. Emerald rice fields rustled in the dawn breeze along the red banks of the Cauvery. The Thanjavur district of Tamil Nadu is renowned for its many...

Curvature

When I first told people that I was leaving America to return to India for good, the responses ranged from the incredulous “Wow!” to the skeptical “Really?” There were a few “You must be kidding” usually followed by a nervous laugh, or “How did you come to this...
A Faded Green Sari

A Faded Green Sari

The young cleaning woman’s main weapon in her war against dirt was the kind of twig broom that has been used forever in India. Her uniform, a faded green sari, was wrapped modestly around her thin body. I admired her work but, unfortunately, her vigorous campaign to...
Tales Carved in Stone

Tales Carved in Stone

Photos: KAMALA THIAGARAJAN It is a warm, breezy evening as I stroll along the narrow street that leads the way to one of the world’s most ancient places of worship. The sweet scent of jasmine flowers and freshly cut coconuts assail my senses. On either side of the...
Higher Knowledge

Higher Knowledge

Why do so few people visit Gujarat, while Gujaratis are found traveling all over India—at every tourist site, temple or hill station? Perhaps because the state of Gujarat is out of the way, far from big cities such as Delhi and Mumbai? Unless you are a wildlife lover...